Renowned for its exceptional durability, leather has earned its place as a timeless material and played a role in the development of many civilizations. In fact, did you know that the earliest records of leather artefacts date back to 1300 BC? Peoples devised various preservation techniques to prevent hides from decaying. As populations advanced and became more sophisticated, the scale of manufacturing and the methods for producing leather evolved accordingly.
Nowadays, there are two main techniques that tanneries use to preserve leather: Vegetable tanning and Chrome tanning. Both yield distinct products with unique characteristics that can be utilized for various types of projects.
Why is the leather being tanned?
Raw animal hides are composed of collagen, which is susceptible to bacteria and enzymes that lead to decay. Tanning process stabilizes this collagen, preventing decomposition and enhancing leather's durability. The process also enhances leather's flexibility and softness, while increasing its resistance to moisture and environmental elements. Most tanneries employ additional techniques to improve or alter the colors, textures, and finishes of the processed hides, boosting their aesthetic appeal.
Vegetable Tanning (also called Veg-Tan)
This tanning method utilizes natural tannins, like tree bark extracts, to bind with the collagen fibers in the hide. Often regarded as less environmentally harmful than chrome tanning, this process can take several weeks to complete, which is why some products made with that kind of tanning can also be more expensive to purchase.
Leather products crafted from vegetable-tanned hides will develop a stunning patina over time as they absorb moisture and oils from the air or through regular handling. Typically, the patina will cause the leather to develop a darker, glossier finish. Vegetable-tanned leather items, particularly those in brighter colors, may be slightly more susceptible to staining and water absorption when new (since the patina hasn’t fully developed yet).
Another key feature of vegetable-tanned hides is their improved stretch resistance, making them ideal for tension-bearing items such as belts and watch straps.
Some items in our shop crafted from vegetable-tanned leather include: belts, wallets, cardholders, AirPods cases, earrings, and more.
Mineral tanning (also called chrome tanning)
This process uses chromium sulphate as a stabilizer, instead of natural tannins. Developed in the 19th century, it accounts for approximately 80% of global leather production. It has the advantage to be significantly faster to produce than vegetable tanned leather.
Another advantage of chrome-tanned leather is the overall enhanced water and stain resistance. Products made from such leathers are unlikely to fade or darken over time, preserving their original finish for a longer duration. As a result, this leather needs less maintenance overall.
At the same thickness and area, a chrome-tanned hide will be less dense (and therefore lighter and more flexible) than vegetable-tanned leather. For this reason, it will definitely stretch further than veg tan, but it will take more tension before breaking point is reached.
Here are some items in our shop crafted from chrome-tanned leather: bags, toiletry bags, pencil cases, bookmarks, etc.
So, which tanning is best?
We use both! Although these two leather tanning methods have their advantages and drawbacks, we strive to source all our leather from responsible suppliers, ensuring the highest quality products made with leather that offers the best properties for each purpose.
What about Vegan leather?
Vegan leather, often referred to as "faux-leather" or "synthetic leather," has gained significant popularity in the past years as an animal-friendly alternative to real leather. To satisfy our curiosity, we have tried to craft some of our signature products using various alternatives, including cork leather, Polyurethane (PU) leather, cactus leather, and more. We came to the obvious conclusion that these alternatives do not offer the durability and quality required to qualify as long-lasting products. Additionally, PU leather is made from polymers, which are derived from petroleum.
While we are mindful of animal well-being, we are equally concerned about the waste generated by repeatedly purchasing lower-quality items. For this reason, we are committed to selecting hides from tanneries that prioritize high animal welfare standards and environmentally conscious tanning methods. We believe the best solution to the environmental damage caused by fast fashion is investing in handmade, high-quality products designed to last a lifetime.
